Arrival in Shkodër
Landed in Tirana and drove north to Shkodër, the gateway to the Albanian Alps. Explored the old bazaar and watched the sunset over Lake Shkodër from Rozafa Castle.
A 5-day trek through the Accursed Mountains (Prokletije) — from Shkodër to Theth, over the famous Valbona Pass, and across Lake Koman. One of Europe's last wild frontiers.
Landed in Tirana and drove north to Shkodër, the gateway to the Albanian Alps. Explored the old bazaar and watched the sunset over Lake Shkodër from Rozafa Castle.
<p>Set off early on the winding mountain road from Shkodër to Theth. The drive through Kelmendi gorge was breathtaking — sheer cliffs, switchbacks, and emerald river below.</p>
Hiked to the famous Blue Eye spring — a natural karst pool with impossibly clear turquoise water. The 45-minute trail through beech forest was a perfect warm-up.
Afternoon hike to Grunas Waterfall, a 30-meter cascade tucked into a limestone amphitheater. The mist felt incredible after the midday heat.
The big day — 7 hours crossing the 1,795m Valbona Pass connecting Theth to Valbona Valley. Alpine meadows, snow patches in July, and jaw-dropping panoramas of the Accursed Mountains.
Descended into the lush Valbona Valley — green meadows, stone farmhouses, and towering limestone peaks on every side. Checked into a family-run guesthouse.
Woke up to a traditional Albanian mountain breakfast: homemade bread, local cheese, wild honey, and Turkish coffee on the terrace with panoramic valley views.
Joined a segment of the famous Peaks of the Balkans trail — a cross-border route through Albania, Montenegro, and Kosovo. Wildflower meadows and ridge-top views for miles.
Pushed toward the higher elevations near Maja e Jezercës (2,694m), the highest peak in the Albanian Alps. Above the clouds, the scale of the Prokletije range is humbling.
Returned to the guesthouse just in time for a spectacular sunset. The stone lodge glowed amber against the silhouetted peaks. Raki and stories with fellow hikers.
Took the legendary Lake Koman ferry — a 2.5-hour journey through dramatic canyon walls rising straight from emerald water. Often called "Europe's hidden fjord."
Final hike through the pine forests on the Montenegrin side of the Prokletije range. Golden afternoon light filtered through the trees as the trail wound downhill.